Recommended Equipment
This list includes rehab and training tools that I use personally and in the clinic, and recommend to clients for their own training or self treatment. Having quality equipment goes a long way in improving the rehab and training experience.
Please seek appropriate guidance from a healthcare or strength training professional if you are unfamiliar with the use of any of this equipment.
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Rehab & Training Tools
This is the tool that I keep finding more and more uses for. Progressive and controlled loading is so important in many aspects of rehab and training, and these make it easy to do anywhere, and with minimal equipment. Frictitious offers 10% off any order if you start at the link here or simply use the discount code OnsightMovement at checkout.
Frictitious Port-A-Board
These ones are TOUGH. I use them in clinic for cueing squats, core exercises, and heavier upper body work. They also work well as resistance for portable fingerboard training, and supported pullup progressions.
Heavy Duty Resistance Bands
The Metacarpedge is an unlevel edge that helps better distribute load throughout the fingers for training. People with achy fingers love it, and I've found it extremely useful in their training and rehab. These are unique and really useful especially for training open hand grip.
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Metacarpedge V2
Xero makes some of my favorite shoes. I wear them for just about everything: life, training, clinic work, running, and hiking. If you are interested in comfy, minimalist, foot-friendly footwear, check them out.
Xero Shoes
These are smooth, stone tools that I use for performing soft tissue work and scraping to help improve mobility and massage scar tissue.
Gua Sha Stone Tools
This is another great tool for soft tissue work and trigger point release. I think it is better suited for smaller areas as well as when you want to dig in to release tight muscles or knots.
The Wave Tool
This is the lotion I use in clinic. Great for skin hydration and use with tools or hands for soft tissue mobilization. It takes longer to be absorbed, which allows you to really work out knots, mobilize scar tissue, and perform other techniques. Smell is very mild which I appreciate.
Cocoa Butter
A simple tool for stretching, rolling out sore spots, and increasing mobility. If you don't already have one, this one is very economical. For reference, I have the 36 inch size in clinic.
Foam Roller
Leukotape is stiffer than your standard athletic tape. When it comes to protective taping after a pulley injury, this is a great option that has some research behind it.
Leukotape
While tape doesn't necessarily solve all your problems, it complements the work you do training and rehabbing. I use tape for a variety of reasons including external support, temporarily limiting mobility, or a kinesthetic cue to change your movement patterns.
Athletic Tape
Clients with a suspected TFCC injury (pinky sided wrist pain) have really appreciated these during their rehab and training. They can be helpful in reducing pain and providing support as you return to climbing.
Wrist Widget
Ankle sprains are rough and happen to many boulderers. Clients find these extremely helpful as they progress from the initial injury and early rehab to more dynamic movements and return to sport.
Laced Ankle Brace
Therapy putty is ideal for squeezing and stretching, and works as a simple solution when reintroducing light hand and finger movements. I find it especially helpful when things are sensitive early on, before clients are ready to progress to higher intensity rehab exercises.
Therapy Putty
Kettlebells are so versatile and take up minimal space. I find great uses for them for upper body and lower body work. A couple different sizes go a long way, and they attach easily to portable hangboards for "no hang" exercises.
Kettlebell
These make a huge difference in preventing a stiff neck after long days at the crag or belaying in the gym. It takes a little getting used to, but I appreciate them every time I give a long belay.
Belay Glasses
Most climbers already have these, but if you need another to dedicate to PT exercise, these are just the right size to use for rehab. I like using them for mobility work, isometric exercises, and attaching weights to portable hangboards.
Climbing Sling
The "pulley pal" is a prefabricated pulley protection splint. While a customized splint is recommended, these look to be a solid option, offering more support than taping. Recommended for higher grade pulley injuries. I'm excited to try out this affordable option for people!
Pulley Protection Splint
These rings are another option to therapy putty. I find them useful when dealing with pain in the hand and thumb. I think they are a great option to work some active movement and strength in the hands in a convenient package.
Hand Grip Exercisers
Cervical traction is used to relieve compression at the spine. When patients find relief from a trial of manual traction in the clinic, this is an option to perform self cervical traction at home.
Cervical Traction
While a bucket of ice water certainly does the trick, these ice packs are cleaner, reusable, and portable, giving you mobility to continue with other tasks while you ice things. Clients love these after a hard climbing or training session.
Penguin Fingers Ice Packs
If you're building out a home gym or just need a couple of weights, these are a great start at an entry level price point. I use these for upper and lower body, and love them for weight bearing exercises in pushup and plank positions.
Dumbbells
Non-latex resistance bands that can be used for rehab and training exercises. These are long strips that can be tied in a loop, knotted, placed around a banister or doorway for various uses. They are light and portable for easy travel.
Theraband Resistance Bands